Let me start by saying where I did not have brunch this weekend: Lula Cafe. Don’t get me wrong, I really wanted to have brunch there. So much, in fact, my willing companion and I left at the ass crack of dawn, operating under the delusion that half past nine is early enough to beat the lines. Instead, we arrive to a tragic 30-minute wait, wasting $2.00 in parking and walking away without the duck confit omelet I banked on. Exchanging a knowing look of, “Eff this,” we headed down the block to Treat Restaurant — and I have never been so happy to have settled with a second choice.

Steak Benedict at Treat (Photo: Carly Fisher)

The unfortunate problem with having hundreds of brunch options is that great restaurants like these often get lost in the shadows of trendier spots. Of course, having an inconspicuous Humboldt Park address probably doesn’t help garner much attention either. But what you have been passing up for so many months — and I know that you have — is probably one of the best kept brunch secrets in Chicago.

Entering the restaurant, I immediately wished that I was really hung over. The conditions were essential for soothing a tender brain: a room dimly lit by a few rays of sunlight, hushed voices and ample seating to expedite the need to soak up any lingering alcohol from the night before. Despite a soundtrack of Devendra Banhart playing softly in the background and our waitress looking like a more beautiful version of Miranda July, the atmosphere did not feel the least bit pretentious (though both of these facts are admittedly not a very good defense). 

Blending Indian and New American dishes, Treat’s menu features a number of original, reasonably priced dishes such as Pakora Pancakes ($7.95) and the Saag Paneer Scramble ($9.95). We quickly settled with the Steak Benedict ($10.95) for our savory dish and the Masala French Toast ($7.95) for our sweet, with sides of chicken sausage and spicy potatoes ($1.95), proceeding to talk smack for a few minutes until our entrées arrived.

Masala French Toast (Photo: Carly Fisher)

French toast is something I rarely order — mainly because no one ever gets it right. You would think that a brunch item as simple as fried egg bread would not be one of the most common failures, yet there are only a few that manage to do it up. But in this case, Treat’s Masala French Toast definitely hit the mark. Sweet and spicy with a side of honey chevre mousse, it had a nice balance of flavors and even texture that wasn’t excessively dry or drowned in sogginess with the house-made chai maple syrup. 

The Steak Benedict was also a winner, with thin, juicy pieces of steak topped with a perfectly poached egg and deliciously fatty hollandaise sauce. House potatoes were an unexpected, but pleasant surprise, served in a pancake form akin to Glenn’s Diner, but heavier on the onion and spices.

This is typically the point where I am supposed to say something like, “Well, a, b and c were good, but [restaurant] needs to step up x, y and z.” Except this falls into one of the rare occasions that I have no complaints. Shocking, isn’t it? Everything arrived quickly and prepared well. Portions were generous, but not painful. Switching between the Steak Benedict and Masala French Toast didn’t feel like a sacrifice. Yet, each dish would have been satisfying on its own. I won’t go as far as to denounce Lula for the sake of a positive impression at Treat, but it is certainly an excellent alternative to consistently long wait times. 

Treat Restaurant is located at 1616 N. Kedzie Ave. in the Humboldt Park neighborhood of Chicago. Brunch served Saturday and Sunday, 9:00 a.m.-2:00 p.m. For more information, call 773.772.1201.

— Carly Fisher